Stratford Blinds are perfect to choose for a stylish and contemporary look. With our easy measuring and fitting instructions, they are also very simple to fit and operate! Check out our simple step by step instructions to make sure that your made to measure Stratford Blinds will fit your windows perfectly.
The brackets offer two methods of installation:
Where the brackets are screwed into the lintel (or ‘ceiling’ of the recess)
Where the brackets are screwed onto a facing surface (a wall or window frame)
The outermost brackets should be mounted at least 5cm in from the ends of the blind.
The remainder of the brackets should be spaced evenly along the width of the blind, ensuring that they do not interfere with any of the moving components in the headrail.
Hook the front lip of the headrail over the protruding hooks at the front of the bracket, then raise the back of the headrail so that it’s level. Holding it in this position, swing the swing-arm over and press it firmly against the headrail to lock it in place.
A breakaway cord condenser is pre-fitted to the lift cords so that when a horizontal force is applied to the cords entering the condenser, it safely releases the cords to eliminate any hazardous loops.
If any of the cords are pulled from the condenser…
Make sure the cords aren’t twisted or tangled
Then slot the cords into the notches on the sides of the condenser, ensuring the knots at the ends of the cords are tight.
The safety cleat shall be installed as close to the headrail as possible and in all cases not less than 1500mm from the floor. The cord must be fully accumulated around the safety cleat(s) when the blind is not in use. Use the table below to determine the distance required between the cleats to fully accumulate the cords when the blind is fully raised.
| Drop of blind | *Distance between cord cleats(centre to centre) |
|---|---|
| 1-1000mm | 100mm |
| 1001-2000mm | 150mm |
| 2001-3000mm | 300mm |
Place the safety cleat in the desired position on the wall and mark the positions of the holes with a pencil.
*Distance between cord cleats
(centre to centre)
Two triangular, transparent brackets are supplied, which are used to hold the bottom of the blind against the fitting surface. These are only recommended for use when fitting the blind to a door, they are not usually required for window installations.
There are two types of brackets for vertical blinds, each of which offers a different method of installation:
Use the single hole in the top of the bracket to fix to
the lintel (the ‘ceiling’ of the recess).
Use two screws through the back plate to mount
onto a facing surface (a wall or window frame)
Note that the position of the outermost brackets should be at least 5cm away from the ends of the rail, with any other brackets evenly distributed across the width
If you’re using top-fix brackets, make sure that you mount them at least 7.5cm in front of either
the window frame, or any protruding vents or handes, if there are any. This allows space for the
louvres to turn open and closed.
Situate the front lip of the headrail into the front of the bracket.Lift the back of the headrail and push up firmly to secure the back of the rail into the bracket.
Situate the back lip of the headrail into the back hook of the bracket. Lift the front of the headrail so it’s level, then tighten the screw in the front of the bracket to secure the rail in place
Your vertical blind is fully compliant with the latest safety standards. It has been supplied with a ‘P-Clip’ tensioning device to keep the cords and the chain child safe. Slot both the cord and the beaded chain into the ‘P-Clip’ and secure it to the wall or window frame (if you are fixing to the facing surface then the cord and chain will form a figure of eight, this is fine and will not affect the operation of your blind).
Please note that the P-clip must be installed. The cord must be kept under tension to prevent it from sagging down from the headrail when the blind is drawn open.
Position the‘P-Clip’ at the maximum possible distance,ensuring the cord and chain are taut.
Hook the louvres onto the rail.
Slide the weights into the pockets at the bottom of the louvres.
We will have positioned the controls where you requested during the ordering process. However if you decide to swap the side that they are on, direction of the roll or need to trim the blind further, the controls can be removed by simply unplugging them from the tube. This should be done prior to fixing the brackets.
Where the brackets are screwed into the lintel (or ‘ceiling’ of the recess)
Where the brackets are screwed onto a facing surface (a wall or window frame)
Where the brackets are screwed into the side walls of the recess
Locate the pin-end (the opposite end to the controls) of the blind into the central hole in the corresponding bracket.
Lift the control end of the blind and slot the rectangular ‘lugs’ into the corresponding slots on the bracket.
The cord retaining device must be installed at the maximum distance possible from the control mechanism to prevent looped cords from becoming slack.
Place the retaining device on the wall and mark the position of the screw hole(s) with a pencil.
Attach the retaining device to the wall using the fixings provided.
Roller blinds can have the fabric rolled onto the tube in two directions. The first is referred to as a ‘standard’ roll. This will place the fabric closest to the window or wall so that it comes down at the back of the tube. This is typically used with blackout blinds when they are mounted outside of a recess, the standard roll meaning that there is less light leakage.
The second method is referred to as a ‘reverse’ roll, which places the fabric so that it comes down at the front of the tube, effectively hiding the roll. This method will allow clearance behind the fabric, for window handles and other obstructions, if you’re mounting the blind inside a recess.
If you wish to change the roll method then it’s easy; simply pull the back of the chain to lower the blind, and continue pulling until the metal tube is exposed. Keep going and the blind will begin to raise, with the fabric now rolling up over the front of the roller tube. Note that this will reverse the direction you must pull the chain for raising and lowering the blind (you’ll now use the front of the chain to lower and the back of the chain to raise).
The brackets offer three methods of installation:
Where the brackets are screwed into the lintel (or ‘ceiling’ of the recess)
Where the brackets are screwed onto a facing surface (a wall or window frame)
Where the brackets are screwed into the side walls of the recess
Wider blinds will be supplied with support brackets. These should be positioned towards the centre of the window area in-line with the box brackets. Make sure that the position of the support bracket is clear of any cords coming out of the headrail. Support brackets can be top-fixed or face-fixed.
If you are fitting the blind inside a recess, go to step 3 before step 2.
Lift the blind to the window and slot the headrail into the open brackets. Swing the hinged section of the bracket closed and press firmly until it locks.
Attach the winged clips to the rear of the pelmet and hook the serrated pelmet clips onto the headrail (if installing the blind within a recess, this should be done before step 2) so that both the serrated clips and winged clips are in corresponding postions on the headrail and pelmet. Then align the two clips with each other and apply gentle pressure to the front of the pelmet, directly over the clips to click them together.
If you’ve ordered ‘exact fitting’ then the pelmet will be sent wider and mitred at the ends, with additional end returns to cover the brackets. Use the ‘L’ shaped plastic brackets from your fittings pack to attach the side returns to the pelmet.
A breakaway cord condenser is pre-fitted to the lift cords so that when a horizontal force is applied to the cords above the condenser, it safely breaks away, eliminating any hazardous loops.
If the cord condenser is pulled apart:
Untwist the cords so that they’re nice and straight.
Slot the cords into the channel in the centre of one half of the consenser. If your condenser differs slightly from the diagram, don’t worry, just slot any cords that aren’t already tied into place inside in the same way.
Click the two halves back together, ensuring there is no loose thread trapped at the edges of the condenser.
The safety cleat shall be installed as close to the headrail as possible and in all cases not less than 1500mm from the floor. The cord must be fully accumulated around the safety cleat(s) when the blind is not in use. Use the table below to determine the distance required between the cleats to fully accumulate the cords when the blind is fully raised.
| Drop of blind | *Distance between cord cleats(centre to centre) |
|---|---|
| 1-1000mm | 100mm |
| 1001-2000mm | 150mm |
| 2001-3000mm | 300mm |
Place the safety cleat in the desired position on the wall and mark the positions of the holes with a pencil.
*Distance between cord cleats(centre to centre)
